From tentatively sliding a foot into burbling mountain pools to launching head first into crashing waves, there’s nothing quite as rejuvenating or thrilling as a swim in nature. Whether you’re a wet-behind-the-ears newbie or hardened cold water connoisseur, seasoned wild swimmer Joe Minihane shares his favourite spots for a memorable outdoor dip in the UK and Ireland.
As far as perfect afternoons go, I can think of little better than easing myself into the clear peaty water of the River Wharfe, with the majestic ruins of Yorkshire’s Bolton Abbey looming large overhead. For me wild swimming means freedom, a chance to slip into idyllic bodies of water and become part of nature, rather than simply standing and looking at it.
My love of taking a dip stems from regular swims in London’s Hampstead Ponds and an obsession with Waterlog, the late naturalist Roger Deakin’s classic book about the joys of wild swimming. My own book, Floating, retraced Deakin’s seminal text, and took me across the UK in a search for invigorating swims and a chance to feel the cool, calming effect of the water for hours after I’d dried off and headed home.
Whether it’s your first time braving the waves or you’re a pond-dipping pro, here are some of my favourite outdoor swimming spots to take the plunge in the UK and Ireland.
Hampstead Ponds, London, England
London’s Hampstead Heath is home to three bathing ponds: Highgate Men’s Pond, Kenwood Ladies Pond and the Mixed Pond. The latter is open between May and September, while the segregated ponds welcome bathers throughout the year, with hardy swimmers breaking the ice in the depths of winter.
Each one offers a charming, natural oasis a short hop from the hustle of the city, with great crested grebes paddling across the surface and broadleaf woods surrounding the banks. Lifeguards and basic changing areas make it the ideal halfway point between wild dip and municipal bath; and an unforgettable aquatic experience during a city break in the Big Smoke.
Make it happen: the ponds are a 30-minute walk from Hampstead Tube Station, a stop on the Northern Line on the London Underground metro system. Alternatively, take the Overground (again, part of the London metro system) to Hampstead Heath and turn right up Parliament Hill for city views and easy access to the water.
Stay: National chain Premier Inn has a hotel in nearby Belsize Park, just a short walk from the Heath.
River Waveney at Geldeston Locks, Norfolk
Marking the border between the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, the Waveney flows lazily through water meadows towards this idyllic swimming hole close to The Geldeston Locks pub. A favourite spot of Waterlog author Roger Deakin, tresses of weed sweep on the current just beneath the surface and the surrounding thickets of tall poplar trees sway in the breeze.
Swimmers can drop in from a boat launching post or leave their kit on a handy bench and slide in where the bank slopes gently towards the river.
Make it happen: The nearest train station to the spot is Beccles. From here, flag a taxi to Geldeston Locks. The Locks are also a 30-minute drive from the city of Norwich.
Stay: Three Rivers camping offers riverside pitches and kayak hire, and is ideal for accessing the Locks.
Loch An Eilein, Scotland
Set within the beautiful Rothiemurchus Forest in the Cairngorms National Park, Loch An Eilein is a swimmer’s dream. A small island, replete with a ruined castle that’s home to a parliament of rooks, is within easy swimming distance of the footpath on its western shore.
Once in the water, the frog’s eye views across to the mountains of the UK’s wildest region are spectacular – just make sure you have a hot drink to help you warm up afterwards.
Make it happen: the famous resort of Aviemore is just a 20-minute drive away. Aviemore can be reached by train from Inverness and Edinburgh, as well as on the overnight Caledonian Sleeper from London.
Stay: Rothiemurchus Camp and Caravan Park offers pitches beneath the trees and a chance to get close to nature.
Silver Strand, Co. Donegal, Ireland
A horseshoe–shaped bay in one of the remotest corners of County Donegal, Silver Strand lets you wade into the Atlantic without having to worry about its wild waves.
The grassy hills which slide towards the sand make for the perfect pre-swim hike, with a long nap on the beach afterwards the perfect reward for a long soak. Steps down to the beach mean you can avoid clambering down the rocks.
Make it happen: Silver Strand is on the Wild Atlantic Way, a tourist route which runs along the entire west coast of the country. The beach is six miles south of Glencolumbcille.
Stay: Family run Aras B&B offers cosy accommodation just a short drive from the water.
Bryher, Isles of Scilly, England
Sweeping white sandy beaches and azure water are not something you tend to associate with the UK. But these features are a mainstay on the Isles of Scilly. 25 miles off the coast of Land’s End, all of Scilly’s islands are stunning. But Bryher, just two and a half miles long and half a mile wide, has the best swimming.
The water is icy cool, so pull on a wetsuit and swim out to the kelp forests which sway just beneath the surface. A sunset dip here is unbeatable.
Make it happen: Bryher is a short boat ride from the main island of St Mary’s. The latter can be reached via ferry from Penzance or a light aircraft from various airfields across Cornwall.
Stay: Hell Bay Hotel sits right on the beach and has unrivalled sunset views.
Loch Tarbert, Jura, Scotland
Not to be confused with the loch of the same name on the Scottish mainland, Jura’s Loch Tarbert almost cuts this wonderfully-secluded Hebridean island in two. The best swimming is found in its sheltered eastern end, accessible by a wide footpath which snakes down from the island’s only road.
The water here is pleasingly wild, with deer stalking across the tussocky hills and the Paps, Jura’s famous trio of peaks, looming on the horizon on a clear day.
Make it happen: Take a ferry to the neighbouring island of Islay from the mainland port at Kennacraig (two hours west of Glasgow), before hopping on the ‘wee ferry’ across to Jura. Be aware that ferry times vary throughout the year.
Stay: Jura Hotel, in the main village of Craighouse, has views across the Sound to the mainland, with otters visible on the rocks.
River Wharfe at Bolton Abbey, Yorkshire, England
Where the River Wharfe meanders close to the ruins of Bolton Abbey – destroyed by Henry VII during the dissolution of the monasteries – sits the perfect river beach.
The water here is peat rich and clear and fresh thanks to the fact it flows straight off the nearby hills. On summer days it can get busy, but come when it’s cloudy and it will just be you, the water and the medieval abbey.
Make it happen: Bolton Abbey is a 15-minute drive from the village of Skipton, which is accessible by train from the city of Leeds.
Stay: The Devonshire Arms sits within the Bolton Abbey Estate and offers a luxurious spa to help prolong post swim relaxation.
Llyn Cwm Bychan, Wales
At the end of a winding road that follows the crashing, white water of Afon Artro, Llyn Cwm Bychan is a Welsh wild swimming gem. Its remoteness means you’re unlikely to be sharing its refreshing depths.
The eastern end of the lake is shallow, with a soft bed, making it easy to wade out and get views from the heart of the lake without feeling in danger. Best enjoyed on a wet afternoon, with the hills shrouded in mist adding a mystical feel to proceedings.
Make it happen: Head to the village of Harlech. From there, it’s a twenty minute drive east along narrow roads. Harlech is on the picturesque Cambrian Line (providing connections from the county town of Shrewsbury in England), one of the prettiest train journeys in the UK.
Stay: Maelgwyn House in Harlech is the ideal base for Llyn Cwm Bychan and even has its own art gallery.
The Vico, Co. Dublin, Ireland
Arguably the best swimming spot near the Irish capital, the Vico, also known as Hawk Cliff or The Ramps, offers the chance to slip straight into the sea, or have a gentler dip in the small seawater pool that is hewn into the rocks.
A set of steep steps lead down to the water, which can get choppy when the wind is up. Diving is not allowed, even if it can feel tempting. Look out for dolphins.
Make it happen: The Vico is accessible from Dublin via the DART train, which calls at the nearby station of Dalkey (journey time: 30 minutes). There’s a path down the cliffs to the pool from the Vico Road.
Easedale Tarn, Lake District, England
The Lake District is blessed with a lifetime’s worth of swimming holes. But away from its larger lakes and its hidden becks and streams, Easedale Tarn is the area’s ideal dip.
Enough of a hike from the village of Grasmere to make sliding into its cool waters feel rewarding, its shelving beaches and shallow centre make it a swimmer’s paradise. While walkers trail up into the fells, feel the cool water on your back and enjoy different angles on the scenery that you’ll never get on dry land.
Make it happen: Easedale Tarn is a two-and-a-half-mile uphill walk from the village of Grasmere. Grasmere can be reached on public bus from the towns of Ambleside and Keswick.
